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Diversity within the PDO of Parmigiano Reggiano.

This short article is intended to be a tool for consumers to make informed choices when purchasing Parmigiano Reggiano (PR). We are talking about an artisanal product, of extreme quality, where each wheel produced is different from the others.

As we will see later, there are small variations in the operations of producers (I call producers the complex system of operators in the sector) that interact together to create the uniqueness of the product that will be placed on the market.

The production of Parmigiano Reggiano (PR) is regulated by strict specifications drawn up by the “protected designation of origin” (PDO) protection consortium, which, is one of the largest organizations in the world is a complex system made up of territories, breeders, dairies, maturers and traders, organized in various ways.

About 350 dairies operate in the PDO with a total of 2250 dairy farmers producing the milk; there are about 245000 cows, with an average of a hundred head per stall.

Maturing can take place either directly at the cheese factories where the cheese is produced or at large cheese ripeners who buy the cheese from different dairies and brand it with their own trademark.

The number of producers who really control the entire supply chain, that is, from the cultivation of wheat fields, Unfortunately, the number of producers who really control the entire supply chain, from the cultivation of fields, all the way to retail is still very small in number, and this is a big problem as will be explained later.

The Italian Food Valley project aims to assess who are those few producers who manage the entire production chain, discover their secrets and help consumers make informed choices when buying.

The process to create this wonderful product is relatively simple, but it takes wisdom to express all the biodiversity that the territory can give; PR is only the end result of choices made in the field during the entire production chain starting from the feeding of the cows to the period and place of seasoning of the wheels.

This world although extremely “disciplined” (the consortium Parmigiano Reggiano rules that every producer must follow to make PR) is very “diverse,” because fortunately there are some variables that the operators in the field can manage to characterize their products; in the stables we can find fodder from wild grassland, or from fields cultivated with alfalfa in the case of mountain farms we talk about fresh or dried fodder obtained from mowing stable polyphyletic meadows, in addition to that from fields cultivated in high altitude naturally.

The breeds of cattle in the stables are fassona, bruna, white modenese or red reggiana sometimes bred together and sometimes instead bred by breed type, because, as is well known, different breeds produce milk with different organoleptic characteristics and different quantitative yields.

Another aspect to keep in mind, which explains the variability of cheese is the management of the animals in the barn, in fact, animal welfare care is implemented by building barns with space for movement and grazing, when possible, this barn design makes the animals less stressed and leads to qualitatively better milk production.

To get a little more specific about this world, I begin by describing the organization of production dairies:

70% are dairy cooperatives

19% farm dairies

11% dairies that purchase milk.

The organizational choice of the dairy sometimes also determines the different manner of how and where the product is aged and how it is marketed.

Below I will analyze key points in the production chain that determine the variety of the product that will be marketed and qualify some producers over others:

1.Breed of cows

2.Altitude of the fields and positioning of the stables

3.Microclimates

4.Herbs and hay

5.People and bacteria

6.Innovative techniques and traditions

The breed of cattle

The most widespread breed is the Friesian the black and white one to be clear that represents for many the cow par excellence is an imported breed is present in large numbers in all stables because it is a cow that produces a lot of milk, the high milk productivity of the bovine has come at the expense of a reduction in the concentration of protein and fat which are the compounds that actually create cheese. Through genetic selection, however, it was advantageous for some breeders to breed Friesian cows because a good cheese yield was obtained. Slowly with the genetic selection of the Friesian, it also caught up in terms of protein and fat compared to local breeds such as the rossa reggiana and the bruna.

In any case, the red reggiana has as well as other native breeds a k casein peculiarity that possesses optimal dairy qualities both in coagulation and curd.

Milk is not exclusively a product that depends on the genetics of the cow, and cheese is not the result of the skill of the cheesemaker.

 

The Territory

parmesan is produced in a small part of Emilia that includes the lowland and Apennine areas. The variation in altitude brings distinct belts with different particular forage essences unlike the Alps, in the Appennini there is no free grazing at high altitudes. The alfalfa grown in mountainous areas of the Apennines is preferred because it resists drought better than in the plains, of course in mountainous areas there is a presence of stable meadows i.e. agrosystems with a high variability of plant essences, in some cases over 100 different species in other areas one can find polyphyletic meadows with few forage essences.

Feeding of cows that produce milk

The diet of cows whose milk is intended for the production of Parmigiano Reggiano consists of fresh or dried fodder (mainly stable meadow or alfalfa hay) from the area of origin.

Fermented fodder is prohibited as it carries anti-cheese bacteria, which additives would have to be used to be counteracted, which are prohibited by the specification.

Along with fodder, the feeding regulations also provide for the use of feeds composed of grains such as corn, barley, wheat …..ma must be fed as is or crushed in the form of a meal.

These feeds provide energy, protein, and specific vitamins that are useful in sustaining strain for the animal during the various stages of calf gestation.

The valuable use of fresh and dried fodder that is mandated by the specification is obtained from the mowing of stable polyphyletic meadows (ancient and never plowed for decades rich in more than sixty grasses and alfalfa that persists on the same land even 4 or 5 years)

This agronomic practice is contrasted with the cultivation of corn from which silage is made, which is prohibited in PR production with an important impact on the sustainability of agricultural practice. In fact, compared to corn, stable grassland and alfalfa crops require less irrigation water use, no pesticide distribution, very little use of chemical cover crop fertilizers, most often replaced by organic manure, and in addition, stable grassland makes a huge contribution to reducing soil erosion.

Bacteria and humans

In addition to the variability of forages, there are different bacterial ecosystems their contribution to the variability of the taste of the finished product is of great significance. In fact, different ecotypes of bacteria can influence the taste profile of the product by giving different taste nuances. Microbiological diversity is linked to forages so in addition to the type of herbaceous essence to the field management system and the skill of the farmer in controlling haying men and bacteria, key players in taste diversity.

Cattle psycho-physical stress and milk quality

The type of barn husbandry affects the psycho-physical stress of cows loose housing and elements that limit heat during the summer period are elements that improve milk quality parameters. The winter season is the best season for cattle in past years in fact the best PR was that produced in winter. During the summer period the animals take in more water, which partly dilutes the milk and therefore there is a need for more attention from the dairyman during processing.

Cheesemaker’s skills and differences in the cheese

During the summer period, cows feed on fresh flowering grasses that give the cheese if properly processed a different flavor and fragrance than the winter product.

Operations at the dairy are conducted in an artisanal manner by the cheesemaker, one of the most interesting processes that diversifies Parmigiano Reggiano are the activities that are carried out after the pinning:

checking the right consistency of the curd and the size of the granules; in these cases, the human factor is fortunately very important.

The cheesemaker in fact is a person who all year round day after day with his own hands has to interpret the milk.

Milk is not all the same day after day even if it comes from the same farm, let alone when it comes from different farms.

Of course, technology has entered the dairy as well; there are dairies that have modernized in somewhat complicated processes such as “spinatura” (curd breaking) trying to give homogeneity between forms (more homogeneous curd shape)

Other cheesemakers have chosen to continue doing the same operation still manually to better characterize each shape produced.

There are cheesemakers who “spinano” (curd breaking) up to the shape of the grain of rice, there are cheesemakers who don’t; they “spin big” but instead, dry the grains more afterward.

Another aspect where technology can make inroads is in the construction and management of the cream (cream) “outcrop tanks” where the fat content is controlled; in fact, the amount of fat in the boilers and in particular the ratio of fat in the milk to casein affects the taste and texture of the cheese.

 

Until now, unfortunately, about 80 percent of Parmigiano Reggiano production is sold to companies that buy from multiple dairies and season, select and package the cheese under their own brand name. It is these companies that then supply large retailers i.e., large supermarket chains.

Often the price of PR from large retail chains is quite low, lower than the price of PR bought directly from a trusted dairy.

This happens because supermarkets adopt low-price, often below-cost PR policies to attract customers inside the supermarket and then marginalize other products. Good business for the supermarket bad business for producers and consumers.

In a future article, I will try to explain why this vicious circle has come about and how it is possible to find even poor-quality pieces of PR within supermarkets, and how instead a conscious consumer should buy Parmigiano Reggiano.

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The Food Recruiter

The purpose of Italian Food Valley is to discover and enhance Italian food products that are still handcrafted and that enhance the ancient traditions and authenticity of the food. This passion was born from the fusion of Italian culinary culture, biology, and the study of technological food processes for food production.

It all started several years ago when, after graduating with a degree in molecular biology, I won a scholarship at the University of Parma to attend a master’s program in food technology.

Why did I become deeply interested in Parmigiano Reggiano?

I believe that Parmigiano Reggiano is one of the few foods now sold globally that is still produced artisanal according to strict specifications and that manages to enhance a vast territory located in the Emilia region, therefore, is a genuine Italian product that makes Italy great in the world.

Dairy culture in addition to having studied it at university ran in the family because my wife’s mother was the daughter of an important and renowned dairyman from Parma and a very good dairy worker. For these reasons in my house, Parmigiano Reggiano is an institution, “a tip” must always be present at the table.

Over time getting to know the industry better and better, I realized that under the name Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, there are extremely different products and, in my opinion, different levels of quality.

For these reasons, I embarked on this journey in this wonderful world that started as a passion but is slowly turning into a job: trying to discover, select and enhance what, in my opinion, are the best cheeses made in my area.

The production of this cheese has a history going back thousands of years. The earliest historical records where cheese production in the area is mentioned date back to the Middle Ages, the monks, had learned how to make cheese that would last and could be easily transported. Notarial deeds dated 1254 have been found that testify to a commercial transaction of “caseus parmensis.”

Parmigiano Reggiano is widely known mainly because of the intense work done over the years by the consortium for the protection of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (year of birth 1934) created precisely for the purpose of protecting the designation of origin, facilitating trade and consumption, and helping producers maintain high-quality standards.

To truly understand this wonderful product and what differences exist within this varied world, one must get to know the territory, frequent the dairies and farms that raise the cows, and put one’s nose into the commercial dynamics that have allowed the spread of this cheese throughout the world; unfortunately, this spread has also had negative sides such as the creation of ugly copies produced in other countries that have nothing to do with the original product.

As mentioned before the Parmigiano Reggiano produced, is controlled, and verified by the consortium of protection that supervises, controls, and allows the PDO marking, the consortium oversees the maintenance of its craftsmanship but fortunately fails to homogenize quality. The quality or, rather, the diversification among the different forms of parmesan originates in each step of the production chain starting with the fodder to feed the animals that will produce the milk.

In a future article, I will try to better explain why there are differences between each wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano that is produced although they are all PDO branded.

Making a brief mention, we can summarize the differences dependent on forage production, the way the cows are housed and fed, and the operational differences of the production dairies.

Getting to know the producers and discovering the small differences in processing methods, (although regulated by strict specifications) understanding how the old tradition is expertly mixed with new technologies, and how young farmers manage to enhance their territory gave me the stimulus to embark on this journey.

In subsequent articles, I will also try to explain the variability in the marketing of this product that has become the “number one cheese made in Italy.” As I see it, until the recent past, marketing was in the hands of a few large wholesalers and large-scale organized distribution, which has never been able to valorize the product and especially its production chain-in fact, at times it has made the work of producers extremely complicated.

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FERRARI – PARMIGIANO REGGIANO & LAMBORGHINI – PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA

Emilia-Romagna is known in the world mainly for motors and food.

In this article, I will not talk about motors: I will talk about good Emilia-Romagna food.

My city, Parma, has seen the birth of some of the most important food-related brands, such as Barilla, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Prosciutto di Parma.

The reasons I wanted to write this article are twofold, the first was my personal discovery that there is Parmigiano Reggiano from the mountains, which is different from the better-known and well-known Parmigiano Reggiano brand, the “brother” from the plains; the second was that as I traveled for work and vacation around the world I was able to see that there are many fakes of Parmigiano Reggiano, called Parmesan or Parmesan Cheese, which leverage Italian sounding but have nothing to do with the fragrances and flavors of the original Parmigiano Reggiano.

Parmigiano Reggiano has very ancient origins: it is said that in the Middle Ages Benedictine monks produced something similar, needing to find a way to make the cheese last as long as possible; but the first documented historical evidence of commercialization is from the 1200s with a notarial deed mentioning “caseus parmensis.”

The Parmigiano Reggiano brand as a mountain product has much more recent origins: in fact, it is in a 2013 decree with EU Regulation 1151/12 that the words “Mountain Product” appear to classify food products originating in mountain areas of the European Union.

The birth of this brand had the primary purpose of encouraging people to live in the rural areas of the Apennines, to preserve and care for the land and try to enhance the work of artisans and farmers in the mountain areas facing the Po Valley, in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and Bologna.

Raising livestock and harvesting fodder in the mountains is more strenuous and costly than in the plains, and producers who already produced cheese in the past were struggling economically when compared with farmers and cheesemakers in the plains; in fact, by creating the brand, it was possible to enhance the real differences that exist in mountain versus plains products. The microclimate, with considerable temperature ranges, which affects the cheese maturing phases and the different types of fodder that grows at high altitudes, combined with the skills of some cheesemakers, give rise to a very different product than its “brother” from the plains, producing a unique and exceptional product.

To bear the stylized blue mark with the two mountains Quality Project “mountain product,” the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium and producers must adhere to the consortium’s strict rules:

– the farms of producers of milk intended to be processed into cheese that later becomes “Parmigiano Reggiano Mountain product” must be within mountain areas;

– in the feed of dairy cattle that is processed into cheese that is likely to become “Parmigiano Reggiano Mountain product”, 60% of the dry matter, on an annual basis, of the feed must come from mountain areas;

– the production facilities of dairies processing cheese suitable to become “Parmigiano Reggiano Mountain product” must be in mountain areas;

– each stage relating to milk eligible under the previous points for production into cheese fit to become “Parmigiano Reggiano mountain product” (milk collection, introduction into the dairy, overnight rest in the vats, processing in the boiler and any other stage allowed by the specifications) is carried out separately and independently from milk unfit for processing into cheese fit to become “Parmigiano Reggiano mountain product”, with an entry in the “Production Register”;

– the minimum maturation (12 months) of the cheese wheel suitable to become a “Parmigiano Reggiano mountain product” occurs in establishments within the mountain areas.

Consider that there are currently only 110 dairies that can bear the label.

In fact, unfortunately, the number of wheels produced is very small.

In the specific sections of the site, other articles and/or videos will describe a journey to discover the reality behind the production of a particular quality of Parmigiano Reggiano, which came into the limelight relatively a few years ago; and thanks to its unique characteristics and the skill of some cheesemakers, the product itself has managed to bring prestige to small artisanal realities and to make some mountain communities in the Apennines prosper.